Anti-wrinkle ingredients:
As we grow older, preventing skin aging, removing fine lines, and improving relaxation have become urgent needs of many consumers. There are many anti-aging and anti-wrinkle products on the market, and they are expensive. Which ones are really effective? From the perspective of ingredients, there are three major categories of mainstream ingredients that have been proven to be effective, namely: 1. Vitamin A; 2. Peptides; 3. Polysaccharides. What is the mechanism of action of these three types of ingredients? Which category works better? Today I will do a horizontal review comparison for your reference.
 
Vitamin A is one of the earliest proven effective anti-aging and anti-wrinkle ingredients, and has been the benchmark for anti-wrinkle in the field of cosmetics for many years. It is often used as a comparison when describing the efficacy of an anti-wrinkle ingredient. The status of Jianghu is a bit like hydroquinone in the field of whitening.
 
Retinoic acid (retinoic acid) is the real role of vitamin A, but A acid is too irritating and not suitable for daily care. All countries in the world prohibit the use of A acid in cosmetics. Scientific research institutions around the world have successively developed A aldehyde (retinal), A alcohol (retinol), and A esters (derivatives of A alcohol). These ingredients release tretinoin after entering the skin to play a role.
 
The easier it is to release tretinoin, and the greater the release, the better the effect. Under the same conditions, the order of effect is: A aldehyde > A alcohol > A ester. However, this ranking cannot simply be used to judge the effect of a product. Because the actual effect of the product also depends on the content of active ingredients, formula stability, penetration ability of active ingredients, and synergistic ability of compound ingredients, which require comprehensive evaluation and specific analysis.
 
Mechanism of action of retinoic acid: Retinoic acid acts like a messenger inside the skin. When the content of retinoic acid in skin tissue increases, tissue cells receive a signal and begin to accelerate the synthesis of collagen and proteoglycans (GAG). At the same time, tretinoin can also inhibit the enzyme that breaks down collagen and reduce the consumption of collagen. Play the role of slowing down aging and eliminating fine wrinkles.
 
Retinoic acid has a regulating effect on the growth process of epidermal cells, can thicken the skin, and has a reducing effect on natural aging wrinkles. Retinoic acid can inhibit tyrosinase and reduce the formation of melanin.
 
Retinoic acid can be said to be an all-rounder, which has a full range of effects on the skin. Excellent in anti-aging and anti-wrinkle. Many friends may ask, how long does it usually take to see results. If you use a product with a high concentration of Alcohol A, and Alcohol A has not been oxidized and decomposed during the production process and storage period, you can see the effect on fine wrinkles in 3 weeks to a month. For slightly deeper wrinkles, it takes more than 3 months. If it is a deep wrinkle, it can only relieve the effect, and it is difficult to really remove it. It is estimated that it will take more than one year of continuous use.
 
Vitamin A anti-wrinkle products, in addition to the outstanding effect, another biggest advantage is cheap. Products with vitamin A as the core ingredient range from tens of yuan to one or two hundred yuan, and most consumers can afford it.
 
Vitamin A is effective and cheap, but why is it not used on a large scale? Because it has several fatal shortcomings: 1. High irritation; 2. Poor stability; 3. Photosensitivity reaction.
 
Take Alcohol A (retinol) as an example, the entry-level addition amount is 0.05%, and most of the skin of friends can still bear it. When the addition is 0.1-0.3%, it belongs to the medium addition amount, and the irritation becomes greater, and some small partners begin to have adverse reactions. When it exceeds 0.3%, it belongs to high-concentration addition, and a considerable number of small partners will have redness, dryness, peeling and other adverse reactions on the skin. Some can build tolerance in about a week, and some can't. If the added amount of A alcohol in the product label exceeds 1%, it does not really have such a high concentration, most of them refer to the compound of A alcohol, friends, don’t be fooled.
 
European and American consumers have a strong tolerance and cannot tolerate high concentrations of Alcohol. Domestic consumers have much more delicate skin and poorer tolerance, so they should be especially careful when using vitamin A products.
 
The stability of vitamin A is very poor, and ultraviolet rays, air, heat, water, and peroxidation reactions will all make it lose its biological activity. High requirements are placed on formula, production, packaging and storage. When purchasing A alcohol products, try to purchase within half a year of the production date. Choose products with good airtight outer packaging and avoid products with open packaging.
 
Vitamin A products are photosensitive. The light here refers to ultraviolet light, not the light used for daily lighting, mobile phone light, or various displays. When using products containing vitamin A ingredients during the day, be sure to strictly protect yourself from the sun.
 
Peptides are small molecules of collagen, also known as polypeptides and oligopeptides. It is composed of amino acids with a certain sequence connected by amide bonds. The peptide composed of 2 amino acids is called dipeptide, and the peptide composed of 3 amino acids is called tripeptide. By analogy, the peptide formed by condensation of more than three (including) amino acids is called peptide.
 
Peptides are naturally occurring in the skin and come from the enzymatic breakdown of structural proteins in the epidermis and dermis. They can regulate hormone activity, enhance or inhibit immune responses, transmit signals between cells, and repair scars.
 
Collagen in the skin has its own life cycle and is eventually broken down, releasing large amounts of small protein fragments known as peptides. Some peptide receptors in the skin cells perceive the presence of peptide fragments, and judge that there is collagen decomposition, and new collagen needs to be synthesized for supplementation. When young, collagen decomposition and synthesis are in a dynamic balance. As we grow older, our metabolism slows down, the collagen synthesis process becomes less and less efficient, and the skin becomes sagging and wrinkled. At this time, if the skin is properly supplemented with peptides, it can reawaken the collagen synthesis mechanism, delay aging, and eliminate wrinkles.
 
Peptide anti-wrinkle ingredients are often used in three main categories: 1. Signaling; 2. Neurotransmitter inhibitory; 3. Carrying and transporting.
 
(1) Signal class
These peptides stimulate fibroblasts to produce more collagen, elastin, and other matrix proteins. The increase of these skeleton proteins makes the skin fuller, firmer and more elastic. Representative ingredients are: palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, myristyl pentapeptide-11, etc. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is the core ingredient in Olay anti-wrinkle products.
 
(2) Neurotransmitter inhibitors
The mechanism of action of this kind of peptide is similar to that of botulinum toxin, commonly known as botulinum toxin. It can inhibit the excessive release of catecholamine acetylcholine in the skin, partially block the nerve transmission of muscle contraction information, relax the facial muscles, and achieve the purpose of smoothing fine lines. In vivo studies have shown that these neurotransmitter inhibitors can reduce expression lines by approximately 30%. Representative ingredients are: acetyl hexapeptide-8, pentapeptide-3, dipeptide snake toxin, etc. Estee Lauder thread carving essence uses acetyl hexapeptide-8.
 
(3) Loading and transportation
These peptides transport trace elements such as copper or magnesium to their target sites, which aid in damage repair and enzymatic processes. These trace elements can help the synthesis of collagen precursors, enhance skin elasticity, and improve skin appearance. For example, the earliest discovered peptide, copper peptide (with multiple mechanisms), is a tripeptide with a strong affinity for copper ions. The front-end time of the blue copper peptide has been hyped. If there are many interested partners, we can write a separate article for detailed analysis.
 
In recent years, the types of peptides have been increasing. In addition to anti-aging and anti-wrinkle, many peptides with anti-dark circle, whitening, breast enhancement, anti-oxidation, anti-glycation, and repair functions have also been discovered.
 
The anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects of peptides have been controversial. For example, Paula once believed that peptides have a large molecular weight and cannot be absorbed by the skin. They can only stay on the skin surface to moisturize and have no wrinkle removal effect at all. Peptides face the skin barrier, so it is really not easy to enter the skin and play a role. Peptides are unstable in aqueous solution, and their amino acid functional groups carry a lot of charge, which makes it more difficult to penetrate the skin. Even if they successfully penetrate the skin, they may be broken down and inactivated by enzymes.
 
In order to solve these problems, scientists have come up with many ways, for example, adding a fatty acid chain to one end of the peptide to enhance the stability of the peptide. At the same time, this non-polar carbon chain can make the peptide better absorbed by the skin, which can be enhanced by about five times. Some also use encapsulation technology to increase the transdermal ability of peptides.
 
After years of verification, the anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects of peptides have been recognized. However, the anti-aging and anti-wrinkle effects of peptide products are not as fast as vitamin A products, and it takes at least 2 months to feel the effect. Peptides are generally mild, with low irritation, guaranteed safety, and relatively stable, which cannot be compared with vitamin A.
 
The price of peptide ingredients is high. If you add enough amount, the retail price of the product will be relatively expensive. The dry weight of peptides added is at the PPM (parts per million) level. We see that some ingredients are added in amounts up to 10%, not referring to the amount of pure peptides added, but the amount of mixtures of peptides and other ingredients added. There are also some merchants who take advantage of consumers' recognition of Shengpeptide, which is just a new addition to the concept, and fool the majority of the party.
 
Like peptides, polysaccharides are also a general term for a class of ingredients. Polysaccharides have many skin care effects, and there are more and more researches and applications on anti-aging and anti-wrinkle.
 
The most famous anti-aging and anti-wrinkle polysaccharide is Bosein (hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyranotriol) of L'Oreal Group. It is a patented ingredient of L'Oreal Group and is widely used in its products. Bosein can promote the synthesis of proteoglycan (GAF), making the skin plump and firm. Regarding the mechanism of action of Bosein, Zhen Yao has a detailed analysis in "Is "Skinlike AGE Cream" an Inexpensive Substitute for "Helena's Black Bandage"", interested friends can look it up.
 
According to the actual feedback from consumers, Bosein can make the skin plump, make the skin more elastic, prevent the skin from sagging and aging, and also have a certain repairing effect on damaged skin. It is mild in nature and does not irritate the skin. The anti-wrinkle effect of vitamin A is better.
 
In addition to Boseine, rhamnose is also a polysaccharide with anti-aging effects. L'Oreal and Vichy prefer to use rhamnose. Rhamnose can promote the activity of fibroblasts and promote the synthesis of collagen. In addition, rhamnose even inhibited the damaging effects of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) on collagen fibers. Rhamnose, often used as a moisturizing ingredient, actually has some anti-aging effects.
 
Glycogen is another short-chain polysaccharide composed of glucose that allows cells to quickly rejuvenate when they need energy. It can promote the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin, quickly heal external damage, and has anti-aging and anti-wrinkle functions. Glycogen is an ingredient that Japanese brands like to add, such as POLA Black BA Brightening Morning Emulsion.

Products involved: Ameizii anti wrinkle cream ,face serum,anti aging skincare set,anti aging mask and others.

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